Dial Test Indicator Measurement Is this / End Float - Correct?

[cunning plan]

Please could someone confirm if my understanding / measurement is correct?

I read that the end float needs to be between 3 to 5 thousands or 0.0762 - 0.127mm.

The Dial Test Indicator I have is in mm.

After adding various shims, I have got the end float to measure between the two red triangles as I make the first 'notch' 0.1mm and each notch going up at that point by 0.1mm until 1mm.

1. Is my measurement understanding correct (I've not attempted to measure something with such a small measurement unit before).
2. Is the end float set correctly?

:sign0009:

 

[thejinx]

Each complete turn of the large dial is 1mm which will show as 1 on the small dial. So my understanding is 10 on the large dial would be 0.10. Each mark on the large dial would be 0.01. I thought end float had to be between 0.07 and 0.13 I may be wrong. I am sure I’ve also read you can go down to 0.03. I will check again but I am sure someone will be along to confirm soon

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzH4TDhrYgo

I’m sure Ozzy sent me 5his link before explains things really well.

 

[atafonso]

Each complete turn of the large dial is 1mm which will show as 1 on the small dial. So my understanding is 10 on the large dial would be 0.10. Each mark on the large dial would be 0.01. I thought end float had to be between 0.07 and 0.13 I may be wrong. I am sure I’ve also read you can go down to 0.03. I will check again but I am sure someone will be along to confirm soon

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzH4TDhrYgo

I’m sure Ozzy sent me 5his link before explains things really well.

Jinx, your explanation of the gauge is spot on

0.07-0.13mm is what VW recommends. Based on my experience, i would not use any less than 0.07mm, even 0.06mm can cause a seizure. I normally shoot for 0.08-0.09mm. It takes a lot of time, but as you all know, perfection takes time

Abel

 

[cunning plan]

Each complete turn of the large dial is 1mm which will show as 1 on the small dial. So my understanding is 10 on the large dial would be 0.10. Each mark on the large dial would be 0.01. I thought end float had to be between 0.07 and 0.13 I may be wrong. I am sure I’ve also read you can go down to 0.03. I will check again but I am sure someone will be along to confirm soon

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzH4TDhrYgo

I’m sure Ozzy sent me 5his link before explains things really well.

Jinx, your explanation of the gauge is spot on

0.07-0.13mm is what VW recommends. Based on my experience, i would not use any less than 0.07mm, even 0.06mm can cause a seizure. I normally shoot for 0.08-0.09mm. It takes a lot of time, but as you all know, perfection takes time

Abel

Each complete turn of the large dial is 1mm which will show as 1 on the small dial. So my understanding is 10 on the large dial would be 0.10. Each mark on the large dial would be 0.01. I thought end float had to be between 0.07 and 0.13 I may be wrong. I am sure I’ve also read you can go down to 0.03. I will check again but I am sure someone will be along to confirm soon

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzH4TDhrYgo

I’m sure Ozzy sent me 5his link before explains things really well.

So I have it set way, way too tight! :shock:

Thank you both for taking the time to explain, I'll take another go at it tomorrow! :character0036:

Merry Christmas! arty0047:

 

[atafonso]

You welcome Craig

Abel

 

[thejinx]

no worries

 

[cunning plan]

So, now I know what the dial was trying to indicate, I measured the end-float with no-shims again and had a measurement of around 0.82mm.

0.82 - 0.08 (@atafonso 's value to aim for) = 0.74mm

Rounded up, it probably means I need x3 shims of a value of 0.25mm to have a total of 0.75mm. :|

Which, is pretty annoying as I only bought the 0.32 and 0.34 shims. The 0.25mm shim seems 'unusual' and it is on back order at JK and VWH. :sad0049:

 

[thejinx]

I know what you mean. Machine7 do a .24mm shim. They are fast on delivery as well

 

[cunning plan]

I know what you mean. Machine7 do a .24mm shim. They are fast on delivery as well

Ah, good call! I forgot about M7, just found Cool Air also has the 24/25mm shims. arty0021:

 

[cunning plan]

Just about to place the order for the shims, but quick question, is the Felt Seal also required?

https://www.vwheritage.com/021105311-flywheel-felt-seal-vw-spare
This bit ^

Or is that just for the 2 Litre / Type 3/4 engine?

oke:

:sign0009:

 

[atafonso]

Just about to place the order for the shims, but quick question, is the Felt Seal also required?

https://www.vwheritage.com/021105311-flywheel-felt-seal-vw-spare
This bit ^

Or is that just for the 2 Litre / Type 3/4 engine?

oke:

:sign0009:

Not needed, that’s for a type4

Make sure the shims you get are hardened steel, they should spring back when you try to bend them slightly. If they bend easily i would not use as these types wear really quick. Nothing beats the stock shims by the way

Abel

 

[cunning plan]

Just about to place the order for the shims, but quick question, is the Felt Seal also required?

https://www.vwheritage.com/021105311-flywheel-felt-seal-vw-spare
This bit ^

Or is that just for the 2 Litre / Type 3/4 engine?

oke:

:sign0009:

Not needed, that’s for a type4

Make sure the shims you get are hardened steel, they should spring back when you try to bend them slightly. If they bend easily i would not use as these types wear really quick. Nothing beats the stock shims by the way

Abel

Thanks Abel, I was not sure, but saw it appear on a few diagrams.

Also, I'll check for springyness when I get them.

Happy new year to you sir. arty0047:

 

[67panel]

do you mean the O ring seal in the flywheel, look inside where it goes over the crank. Renew this when you final fit or else oil can creep into clutch. Of course fit a new lip seal as well, best quality as well and oil/grease lip to stop it getting damaged.

 

[cunning plan]

do you mean the O ring seal in the flywheel, look inside where it goes over the crank. Renew this when you final fit or else oil can creep into clutch. Of course fit a new lip seal as well, best quality as well and oil/grease lip to stop it getting damaged.

Thanks for the tips! 8)

But no, it is a different part to the O-Ring Seal behind the flywheel and the main rear flywheel-seal that you tap into the case, but as atafonso mentioned, he thinks the 'Felt-Washer' is for the Type 4, so not relevant for us.

 

[67panel]

Built a few type 4 motors and cant remember a "felt" seal but its been quite a few years since. Also make sure all the parts are scruplesly clean as slightest bit of contamination will give false readings

 

[atafonso]

Tha ks Craig, hope you had good fun in these holydays

On the type 1 the felt is inside the gland nut, next to the input shaft bearing bearing

Abel

 

[cunning plan]

Also make sure all the parts are scruplesly clean as slightest bit of contamination will give false readings

Roger that :character0036:

On the type 1 the felt is inside the gland nut, next to the input shaft bearing bearing

Abel

The glandnut on my engine is just a cylinder with needle bearings in it, no felt? Dam felt! :lol:

 

[atafonso]

If you look from the nut side, there is a sort of retainer, then a little space, then the bearing. In that space it's supposed to be the felt. But most are already gone after 40+years

Abel

 

[cunning plan]

If you look from the nut side, there is a sort of retainer, then a little space, then the bearing. In that space it's supposed to be the felt. But most are already gone after 40+years

Abel

It's a new nut from VWH or JK, I cannot remember which. I'll take another closer look when I'm next with the bus.

Will be dreaming about felt tonight. :roll: :lol: :?

 

[67panel]

Yes a seal to stop rubbish getting in pilot bearing, I think only very early engines had these as its not needed TBH