Oil Change

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Grazy

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Done my first oil change on the van today man it`s a messy business :roll: So I drained all the oil out removed gasket`s and gauze thing and the other gasket .
Got a kit from GSF with new gaskets gauze and copper washers and a larger copper washer
Used the gaskets and small washers , the gauze thing wouldn`t go on and i was too scared to force it so cleaned old one and put back on :?
I was left over with the large copper washer as i didnt remove one and wasn`t sure where it went .
When if filled oil up I noticed creamy white gunk on the inside of filler cap and at either end of a pipe that come off engine that i took off to gain better accesss when topping oil up .

Is this normal or is it a bad sign , Thanks people :wink:
 
It's caused by moisture (and looks like mayonnaise) - in a watercooled motor it's a good sign that you've got head gasket problems :shock: , but in an aircooled motor like yours it's usually caused by a build up of water vapour due to short journeys!!! (The water in the air inside your crank doesn't have time to evaporate with engine heat).
Clean it up and keep an eye on it, I don't think you should worry too much :D

;)
 
I read about that creamy stuff in Camper & Commercial when doing my first oil change.... it says...

"Take the oil filler cap off. Look at the inside. If it has creamy foam in it (often nicknamed 'mayonnaise') then you are doing too many short runs and not allowing the engine to warm up properly. This foam is water inside the engine. In furture, take your van out for a decent run occasionally to heat the oil up and burn off the water. Whatever you find, clean this up now and put it to one side."
 
i had problems fitting the new strainer aswel but looking at how the holes on my old one were mis-shapen, we figured it wasnt easy to put that one on in the first place either so we carried on trying. Eventually pinned half on useing the nuts then got the other side on too and got it far enough up with the nuts to take them off and put the sump plate back on. The holes just didnt seem to be in the right places on mine but hopefully it'l be a lot easier next time!
 
Grazy - I think the large copper washer is intended for sump plates that have a driain plug / bolt in the middle (if its about 12 or 13mm diameter)

FS 8)
 
Oh i see FS would it not be used as mine is a `69 with a sump "plate" with six nuts around perimeter as opposed to the later with a drain plug ???? 8)
 
slammedresto said:
add a sump with drain plug, make it a lot easer i find

I agree with that makes the draining and aiming for the bucket a lot easier,just get a new one ready for when you change the oil next time
 
The only problem with that is you dont get the gauze filter out unless after draining you then remove the plate....
 
It helps though to get the oil out first,then take the whole plate off with less of a mess,is what I meant.My engine originally had a plate without a sump plug,but on my rebuilt engine I have the central sump plug now.It's not essential,just less messier.
 
on the oil change subject what oils do you recommend , some say mineral oil , some say semi , and even mono grade 40 , and what is the best grade to use , 10 40 , 10 50 :?
 
super-craig said:
on the oil change subject what oils do you recommend , some say mineral oil , some say semi , and even mono grade 40 , and what is the best grade to use , 10 40 , 10 50 :?
15/40 mineral. Could even use something like 20/50 mineral. Basically, thick and gloopy!
Synthetic buggers up the seals.
 
Just choose one. Any one of those is fine.

I have been using 30 wt. for over 30 years, but, then again, I live in California.
 
Good quality 15/40 oil or 20/50 if it is high mileage and burns a little. It's what VW recommended for this climate even in 1968.
 
any recommended brands , i know lots recommend millers , but its only available from specialists , any off the shelf recommendations like castrol gtx etc
 
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