Oil Temperature sensor/gauge - Thoughts please?

[Raggles]

I am considering fitting an oil temp sensor and new gauge to my 1600 twin port. Does anyone out there have any thoughts or recommendations as to what I should be considering ... and why?

Am I right that whatever I choose ... it is not about the actual temperature indicated, but more about getting used to what is normal so I will have early warning if something changes?

I thought I might fit alongside a Tachometer.

Thanks

 

[slow-lane-Matt]

We have a "save my bug" sensor, takes 30 seconds to fit, with no cutting or fitting new wires etc.

It's only ever activated a couple of times when driving up mountains in second gear in Spain and it worked a treat

For the price and ease to fit it's an excellent bit of kit.

 

[sparkywig]

We have a "save my bug" sensor, takes 30 seconds to fit, with no cutting or fitting new wires etc.

It's only ever activated a couple of times when driving up mountains in second gear in Spain and it worked a treat

For the price and ease to fit it's an excellent bit of kit.

I've got one of these as well, brilliant piece of kit.
And no worry gauges to stare at either.

 

[Webbaldo]

I was a bit undecided on this, but looking at their video on

http://www.savemybug.com/

I think I'm convinced. I don't want gauges, as rightly said i'd be glued to them worrying. At least this will be a turn-off-engine sign if it ever happens.

Nice and simple mechanics as well.

 

[CornishSilver]

I'm not to cracked up on the save my bug and prefer my gauge. With a gauge you have a little more idea of what's going on rather than just a light coming on when to hot. They are only as accurate as your calibration and when checking your oil it's possible to disturb it and end up with a false reading. If set correctly and not disturbed there's no getting away from the fact they do as they are designed.

 

[Raggles]

I'm not to cracked up on the save my bug and prefer my gauge. With a gauge you have a little more idea of what's going on rather than just a light coming on when to hot. They are only as accurate as your calibration and when checking your oil it's possible to disturb it and end up with a false reading. If set correctly and not disturbed there's no getting away from the fact they do as they are designed.

Which sensor position have you gone for? Presumably not the dip stick one?

 

[CornishSilver]

I'm not to cracked up on the save my bug and prefer my gauge. With a gauge you have a little more idea of what's going on rather than just a light coming on when to hot. They are only as accurate as your calibration and when checking your oil it's possible to disturb it and end up with a false reading. If set correctly and not disturbed there's no getting away from the fact they do as they are designed.

Which sensor position have you gone for? Presumably not the dip stick one?

Its in the oil sump plate, not ideal as you do get some cooling from air flow I expect. As you put in your o/p its more about knowing whats normal than a precise temperature. I do have quite a lip on my sump plate so I'm sure it will deflect the air flow anyhow. I may well put my bug stick back in as well, this thread has kind of jogged my memory its on the side in the garage.

 

[Raggles]

Its in the oil sump plate, not ideal as you do get some cooling from air flow I expect. As you put in your o/p its more about knowing whats normal than a precise temperature. I do have quite a lip on my sump plate so I'm sure it will deflect the air flow anyhow. I may well put my bug stick back in as well, this thread has kind of jogged my memory its on the side in the garage.

I assume that in the sump it will always have a constant coat of oil on the sensor, so will be accurate as far as consistency of reading is concerned? presumably you could test the sensor in water if you wanted to know the calibration factor?

I suppose my question on the 'save my bug' sensor .... which seems a great idea if you find the constant changing temp of the dial a worry (which I suspect I might) .... is that presumably it has to be pretty accurate - as it is a warning rather than a constant monitor? Is there any way to check and adjust calibration to ensure that nothing fries before the warning cuts in? Once accurately set, presumably you just have to be rigorous when checking the oil level to ensure it is correctly seated etc?

 

[CornishSilver]

The difference as I see it is that the gauge allows you to see a slower change to a potential overheat and gives you a little more warning, where as the SMB lets you know when its too hot (already there).

As you say, the way to calibrate the SMB is in a glass of boiling water and if you are careful when checking the oil levels you will be fine. The problem comes if you don't do all the work on your bus yourself as mechanics often don't realise what it is until its been removed and calibration cocked up. SMB is tried a tested, proven, cheap, and simple solution so if a gauge is going to drive you mad then id recommend getting one. You can always set it a little more sensitive so you get the light before the overheat. The sump sensor is accurate in consistency and id say fairly close in true temp.

I found some cracking gauges that matched the OG dials so aesthetics had a part to play as well if I'm being totally honest

 

[Raggles]

Thanks ... really appreciate the input

 

[K@rlos]

I've got autometer gauges in my bus, can't fault them but they are expensive... People say they are worry gauges and you'll stare at them but you don't, do you you stare at the temp gauge in your regular car all the time? No....

 

[matty74]

I fitted a Save My Bug but fitted a male female spade connector at probe end to detach it easily when checking oil .. I have kept the original dipstick in the engine bay so I can check the oil more accurately. As for the calibration, the spring is pretty much opposite [180 degrees] to the contact when cold, so it's fairly easy to check that it hasn't been knocked when the probe is removed, plus I've glued the collar so that it doesn't swivel as recommended on the SMB site. Used it to great effect driving up to Carlisle at Christmas, 4 adults + Dog + Presents etc so fully laden, light started to flicker when pushing a little too hard, so eased off slightly until things cooled down.

 

[Raggles]

I found this link on Volkszone and this ... I assume that both are talking about the Save My Bug?

http://www.geneberg.com/article.php?ArticleID=239

http://www.geneberg.com/article.php?ArticleID=240

 

[chad]

This might help:

http://www.ratwell.com/technical/VDOGauges.html

 

[Albie5]

If driving in excessive heat the temp gauge can tel you at what speed you need to drive at to stop engine overheating - e.g. could be 55mph on a hot afternoon, but 70mph on a cold night.
Albie5

 

[Albie5]

8)

 

[sparkywig]

So does the Save My Bug dipstick.

 

[CornishSilver]

I think I may start using my smb alongside my gauge, just to cover all bases. What really has surprised me since having a gauge is how long it actually takes to get up to a decent running temperature.

 

[Moseley]

I think I may start using my smb alongside my gauge, just to cover all bases. What really has surprised me since having a gauge is how long it actually takes to get up to a decent running temperature.

That's the joy of aircooled. On a water cooled car, the thermostat ensures that cooling is minimal until it is up to operating temperature. On an air cooled, you've got near enough maximum cooling all the time.


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[rlepecha]

I think I may start using my smb alongside my gauge, just to cover all bases. What really has surprised me since having a gauge is how long it actually takes to get up to a decent running temperature.

That's the joy of aircooled. On a water cooled car, the thermostat ensures that cooling is minimal until it is up to operating temperature. On an air cooled, you've got near enough maximum cooling all the time.


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No you haven't.

That's the point of the flaps in the fanshroud..
The oil cooler might get full air flow all of the time, but when the oil is cold the vast majority of the oil bypasses the cooler through the pressure relief valves because the viscosity of the oil is high and the pressure drop across the cooler would be massive.

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