Oil temperatures

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Bobster

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For a fully loaded westy, motorway diving at 65mph what's your temps at?

I'm thinking mine is too high, the engine is a 2165, full flow with cooler but it's still hitting 120 degs.
 
I would say thats too warm - in our old engine the temp would sit at around 95 when cruising and only went above that in the mountains around Spain, although we only had a 1600 twin carb at the time. I think the oil will start to degrade at those temps, how are you ensuring 120 is an accurate reading? Guessing the gauge is calibrated and accurate?
 
That’s the next step. It’s an autometer and the sender is in the oil filter housing.

To test it does the sender have to be grounded to or is it a case of remove sender, ign on and dumb it in some boiling water ?
 
Bobster said:
That’s the next step. It’s an autometer and the sender is in the oil filter housing.

To test it does the sender have to be grounded to or is it a case of remove sender, ign on and dumb it in some boiling water ?
The sender needs to be earthed
 
Sorry to barge in... but I don't have any worry gauges.. I have read about the dipstick test... but how do you test that ?? Is it in situ or pull it out and grab the end that' sits in the oil .? Sorry for the stupid question
 
Just the normal end that you would handle. If it's too hot to hold then you're engine is too hot
 
What gearbox do you have? If its a Freeway Flyer that wont help as the engine has to scream to get the cooling fan to work on a T1 engine. .. 4200 rpm or so for stock . As you slow down the engine you lose cooling.
I used to manage 122 degrees C with 20w/50 oil on a 1641 at 65-70mph, and I once drove it 500 miles in a day from Cologne to Southampton like that.
Then fitted full flow filter and 8 row cooler and run 10w/40 and see a max of 105C at the same sort of speed, but the engine is still running in the 4200-4400 rpm region.
 
Jesus, that is hot! :? Something is a miss, I’d get that looked at. The street/strip high compression 2110 in my pop top westy only hits 85 degrees sitting at 70mph on a hot summers day but I do have a high ratio box so 70 is about 3300rpm.

Do the basics, check timing and mixture, Is the fan belt tension ok? Tinware and seals all good? Also it may pay to check if the fan and oil cooler in the fanhousing is blocked. And hopefully you have the correct size pulleys. Just for the record a deep sump has an unnoticeable effect on oil temps, 1-2 degrees at most.
 
mikedjames said:
What gearbox do you have? If its a Freeway Flyer that wont help as the engine has to scream to get the cooling fan to work on a T1 engine. .. 4200 rpm or so for stock .

I'm by no means an expert, but I'd have thought 2500 to 3500rpm was more likely to be a sweet spot for the fan to work optionally. Mine certainly is nice and happy at lower revs,
 
Bluesnailman said:
mikedjames said:
What gearbox do you have? If its a Freeway Flyer that wont help as the engine has to scream to get the cooling fan to work on a T1 engine. .. 4200 rpm or so for stock .

I'm by no means an expert, but I'd have thought 2500 to 3500rpm was more likely to be a sweet spot for the fan to work optionally. Mine certainly is nice and happy at lower revs,

I’d agree with that. Whilst the fan will probably be shifting more air at higher rpm, the engine will also be producing a lot more heat. I’ve also heard 3500 being quoted as the point where fan performance drops off in relation to the heat generated by the engine, so anything past this point is probably worth monitoring head / oil temps as it could start to get too hot if under load.


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I am hovering on getting a temp gauge. I do use the dipstick heat method. Every time I stop I open the lid and hold the dipstick. It's worked up to now.
 
K@rlos said:
Jesus, that is hot! :? Something is a miss, I’d get that looked at. The street/strip high compression 2110 in my pop top westy only hits 85 degrees sitting at 70mph on a hot summers day but I do have a high ratio box so 70 is about 3300rpm.

Do the basics, check timing and mixture, Is the fan belt tension ok? Tinware and seals all good? Also it may pay to check if the fan and oil cooler in the fanhousing is blocked. And hopefully you have the correct size pulleys. Just for the record a deep sump has an unnoticeable effect on oil temps, 1-2 degrees at most.

Yep, fan etc all seem fine, all tinwear in place. I’m goong to get the carbs / mixture checked properly as the next step.
 
Good move. As for gauges I have Autometer gauges in my bus, tacho, volts, oil pressure & temp. They are very accurate which is more than can be said for other brands
 
Phew .... looks like we’re sorted.

The thermostat had a dodgy cast mark inside which was preventing it opening properly.

Taking it for a proper run tomorrow so fingers crossed
 
£2.40 Dig. Temp probe. Even records the max. Temp.
Saves the hot dip stick in your hand test.
I would not leave it in the engine for too long though.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F122549261651 mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F122549261651
 


Did a temp test with a bunch of testers and found my gauge to over read by 40 degrees , no wonder
I was crapping myself all the way. Oil light on Save my bug dipstick (Gene Berg Type) flashed twice and we just stopped for a rest and went on our way. Fresh oil today before next trip and good to go.

J & P
:D :D :D
 
With the extreme heat we having i would advise using a 20w50 oil to protect your engines better as the regular 30w or 5w30 would be too thin for extreme load and heat. Just my £0.01🤔

Abel
 

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