Running Temperature

[Tintop]

hi

I have a 1584 single port engine (only done 500 miles) fitted with twin 34ict webbers (in my early bay).

What temperature should it be running at normally? And what about in warm weather?

It currently runs at between 80 & 90 degrees at 45 mph, and up hills between 90 & 100 degrees C. Is this right?

 

[Araon]

Aaahhhh.... this very contentious arguement raises its head again.....

the temps your qouting aint too hot at all, however no doubt others will argue that one

its a relatively new motor so is still bedding in (more friction) and all the tin ware will undoubtedly be in place....

How are you measureing the temp and is the sender reading right?

I suspect many more folk will join in on this one especially now the road temp is creeping up.... and vans have recently had the winter overhaul in rediness for the summer....

theres many reasons for the temperature, timware issues (missing items to chrome tinware), oversize barrels, timing and excessive wear/friction the list is endless...

 

[Clarkson46]

The bottom line is VW have never published any figures for oil temperature. Best thing to do is bin the temperature gauge and drive. What you don't know you won't worry about.

 

[Araon]

WHS^^^ .... your better off listening to the engine tones, the smells and visual indications.....

 

[Tintop]

Cheers

The reason i ask is because i cooked and blow my 1641cc last year.

Hence the temp gauge fitted and new engine.

Yes all tinware is fitted correctly.

I am trying to get the engine set up on a rolling road but the nearest one is 40 miles away from me.

Book into another one in Burnley last week get there at 8am (after leaving home at 6:30am) and the guy had damaged his back and rung in sick.

So it was a wasted journey.

Have had info on another place over Driffield way so will probably give him a go.

 

[Benyon]

I have a temp sender attached to the dipstick on a 1600 VEGE engine (9000miles). Bought the van 4 wks ago (first timer) and was advised to run it at 100 to 110 degrees C which is difficult on a motorway unless you stay below 40mph. At 50mph the temp guage settles around 120 degrees and the van drives fine - no smells, noises etc. A friend has a aircooled Porsche 911 and says to run at 120 degrees. I have also heard that dipstick mounted senders are unaccurate and generally over read.

The best response I've heard so far is from Clarckson46 and Aaron above, but as Tintop said, the previous owner cooked his engine and installed the Temp Guage, I don't want to go won the same lines...

On a side note, got the van back from a service and a general look-over by someone with a little more knowledge than me and he gave me two discs of metal that had been welded over the fan housing exhaust ducts. He has no idea why these might have been put there, any suggestions?

Oh, I bought a '71 Dormobile, fairly stock about 4 weeks ago and am learning day by day!!

 

[Araon]

often done to increase the air over the cooler and heads instead of the heater elements, disputed as to how well this works with problems of turbulence in the fan house etc....

 

[strongy]

im running a brand new standard 1600 (about 7000 miles on it now)with all new tin and standard cooling,twin 34icts

it never goes above 80o round town and at 65-70mph its sits at 100o-105o tops(in the winter about 90o)

ive had older engines and they have allways ran hotter

 

[Clarkson46]

............. he gave me two discs of metal that had been welded over the fan housing exhaust ducts. He has no idea why these might have been put there, any suggestions?

What do you mean by the fan house exhaust ducts? How big are these discs? If they were blocking off the 2 outlets either side of the fan housing then get them back on quick.

You can just see the outlets in this picture, just inboard of the carb on each side. Those outlets should be connected to the heat exchangers to provide heat to the bus. Left uncovered you are wasting a good proportion of your cooling air and that will overheat your engine. And as I said above bin the temperature gauge. Driving along a motorway with your eyes glued to the temperature gauge is a good way of tail ending an artic.

 

[aogrady]

Hi!

I got told - if you cant hold the end of the dipstick handle then it's too hot - the timing will play a big part in this too, but thats another debate.......

After a run, my dipstick can be held on the handle fine.....dont know how acurate this is, but after messing about with my timing after changing dizzy (and guessing the timing) the engine seems to run cooler now my timing is spot on....

Though i haven't got a temp guage, and i must admit, does worry me a little, especially as i have the hot air exhaust vent cover missing off the back of my fan housing......

Alistair

 

[Araon]

Clarkson.....someone of some knowledge removed them so I'm assuming the airducts have been reinstated......they have havent they 71???

 

[mIKe cAIn]

i have a gague, it reads well in respect of heat! and is probably not accurate but i know what the gague reads when its too hot, just right or cool. most senders and readers wont be accurate but you will see a pattern with different driving conditions town, motorway etc.. mine will run at 80-90 all day long at 60/70 on the motorway, push it a bit further and it can go upto 120, probably to do with the revs and the fan not working with the belt slipping. a new motor will get hotter but once its got a few thousand on the clock it will ease up

 

[Benyon]

You can just see the outlets in this picture, just inboard of the carb on each side. Those outlets should be connected to the heat exchangers to provide heat to the bus. Left uncovered you are wasting a good proportion of your cooling air and that will overheat your engine. And as I said above bin the temperature gauge. Driving along a motorway with your eyes glued to the temperature gauge is a good way of tail ending an artic.

Yes looks like those outlets are in the same place, that is certainly the size of the discs. Tubes connected to those outlets then go out through the engine bay floor and end there. There are no heat exchangers as my bus has a Monza 4-tip exhaust which I am told is not compatible with heat exchangers...?

Thanks for your help so far guys

 

[Clarkson46]

If those pipes are connected to nothing then remove them and blank off the outlets, it will help your engine cooling no end and bin the gauge.,

 

[Araon]

WHS^^^ if there doing nowt put that cool air to use....

 

[Benyon]

Again, thanks a lot Clarkson & Aaron. Will get em capped off.

Oh and message received re the guage!! :wink:

 

[Benyon]

Further to Clarkson & Araon's comments I'm just trying to get my head round the airflow round the fan housing...

If cool air is drawn in to cool the engine, where does the air once it has warmed exhaust to? Ie if I blank off the outlets mentioned above, would that not limit the amount of cool air entering the fan housing?

I'm still learning, currently at the bottom of a very big curve!!

 

[Clarkson46]

In simple terms, your fan draws in air and blows it over the cylinders in order to cool them. The hot air is blown out the rear under the engine. This is why you have tinware fitted to duct the air where it must go and to keep the cool air above the engine and the hot air below the engine. Now VW used some of the air blown by your fan to heat the interior. It does this by taking s percentage of the air and passing it through the heat exchangers which heat the air. If you do not have the ducts for the heat exchangers then a percentage of the cooling air will be wasted and reduced cooling will result.

Read this it will explain things a little better

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/freemefromthishell/vw/T2 Heating.htm

 

[Benyon]

Ah, the penny has dropped as they say!! :roll:

Can you confirm the link http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/freemefromthishell/vw/T2 Heating.htm

should it end .../T2_heating.htm?
or.../T2heating.htm
or.../T2-heating.htm

 

[Guest]

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/freemefromthishell/vw/T2%20Heating.htm

try that....

spaces special char in html is %20