my first engine install - poxy beginner

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pottinger

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:lol:

you peeps that pull engines and pop em back in in an hour are heros in my book :lol:

I only had half the engine, ie no tinware/alternator etc etc on a trolley jack and it took me f o r e v e r.
I was only fitting for 2 reasons, first being to see if my clutch install seems ok and the other just to see
how hard its gona be later on :shock: thought it would be v simple without all the bits on the engine :lol:

didnt like having the moustache bar on so had to take that off and fit it once in (not sure if i should have done that to start with :oops: )

no matter how much i tried, the final part where ya wiggle it just wasnt happening, and after 2 hours :msn4: of raising this/lowering that it finally went :roll:

i mean 2 hours, :msn4: come on !
admittedly only took 45 mins to take out :lol:

add to this i have a boil on my nose i am pretty shagged off :lol:

a tired and happy its all over potts
 
I drop mine out complete with support bar.

Image0227.jpg
 
I expect you did but I must ask anyway :lol: did you align the clutch with the special tool? And did you put some copper slip on the input shaft in the gearbox?

Everyone has difficulty doing it, I've had my engine slide home perfectly first time but I've also spent 30-40 minutes before :-@ I've also struggled putting an engine back in a splitty then discovered I hadn't removed the flywheel lock :-/
 
Westy Richardson said:
I expect you did but I must ask anyway :lol: did you align the clutch with the special tool? And did you put some copper slip on the input shaft in the gearbox?

Everyone has difficulty doing it, I've had my engine slide home perfectly first time but I've also spent 30-40 minutes before :-@ I've also struggled putting an engine back in a splitty then discovered I hadn't removed the flywheel lock :-/
yep, i like that tool , :lol: went thru every thing that i thought it could be (first time i left the nut on the lower screw :msn4: ) i even removed the starter and slacked the clutch cable completely off :lol:

I didnt put the copper slip on cos im takin it staright back out again, i did think at the time its probably not helping things
so next time when ive done the twin carbs / tinware etc etc i shall get you, grazy, bwutton and Nick to popp over, be like a grand prix tyre changing team, engine in in 8 seconds :p plus im a good tea maker :lol: seriously i have to do it or i wont learn i spose :roll: :lol:

potts pott pott
 
Sparkywig is right about the carbs, to many small bit sticking out very easy to knock off. I also use a small jack under the gearbox, i find it easer to line it all up..
 
I'll gladly come over to lend a hand. And yes, remove carbs before install!!! Is all to easy to clip a mixture screw on the side of the bus and snap it off. Then you'll have a real problem :lol:

Karl
 
Westy Richardson said:
I'll gladly come over to lend a hand. And yes, remove carbs before install!!! Is all to easy to clip a mixture screw on the side of the bus and snap it off. Then you'll have a real problem :lol:

Karl

Cheers matey that would be cool. I'm hopin to get tinware back in 2 weeks then a week of bits and bobs :lol:

Can I ask why people say you have to pull the engine to do a twin carb install as makes it easier? I've got icts so would I be better mounting everything setting up then whipping the carbs off to do the install :lol: :?:

Potts
 
The last bit - handbrake on, in gear, rotate engine to and fro via fan belt to align the splines.
 
Interesting you guys favor fitting the engine without the carbs.

As stevehot posted, a small jack under the gearbox is vital for ease of re-fitting. In addition the gearbox should always be supported anyway on early bays to prevent stress on the gear linkage coupling.

I fit mine with the carbs (twin IDF 40) and the mustache bar.

Wheel the engine in on the trolley jack with it turned at 45 degrees. Jack carefully up to the right height. This is so the carbs clear the body since they are a lot wider than the aperture can cope with. Rotate the engine on the jack to square it up with the box and then ease forward to engage.

The reason I do it this way is because its easier than trying to bolt the carbs and manifolds into place from inside the engine compartment. The trick is to go gentle and accurately. Only if you go at it like a bull in a china shop will you have risk of knocking bits against the body.

Although I do mine on my own, I would advise having two people if at all possible since it makes it easier.
 
You guys with your posh removable valances have got it so easy!!
I have to lift the backend of my crossover almost up to the sky in order to get the engine under, do still do it with the DRLAs fitted though!!
 
dubdubz said:
antoine said:
67panel said:
WHS^^^^^^^^^^^thats the way i do it.



x2

x3- angle is the key, as is a helper

x4 :mrgreen:

Idealy with a helper and mug of tea and packet of custard creams at the ready. The time taken to remove the carb, refit and allign could be spent taking more care when installing the engine with the carbs on.

Des
 
Loxy said:
You guys with your posh removable valances have got it so easy!!
I have to lift the backend of my crossover almost up to the sky in order to get the engine under, do still do it with the DRLAs fitted though!!

I know what you mean.

I have to admit I would be sorely tempted to make the valance removeable if I had a fixed one.
 

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