Progress Pics - Dormobile X-Over

Early Bay Forum

Help Support Early Bay Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Damn!!!!!!!!!!! :shock: :shock:
I guess the bar has had it now , why don't you get it welded to the socket, then you will always have it handy. :lol:

Great progress though, and a job well done!!

J & P
:D :D :D
 
The end of the socket can be replaced as it is interchangeable but I can't remember where I bought it from (had it years) so will probably be be binned.

Will get there and thanks for the words of encouragement.
 
I ended up buying an electric impact wrench for mine as no combination of weight and long bars would get the bloody things off. Also soaked them for days in homebrew penetrating fluid. Good luck getting them off.
 
Aye Kevin, just ordered a nut whacker (ouch..) - only cheap (around £8.50 posted) and a lot of people swear by it so will see if this works.
 
gninnam said:
12.10.2015

Got a 5 foot steel tube from work and decided to have another go of getting the castle nut off......

20151012_183109_zpsxwxz4dbn.jpg


Ah well, end of that plan.


Yup, that's on pretty tight! :shock:

A similar / reverse method can be used in to make sure your flywheel gland nut is on tight enough. Better than a torque wrench :lol:

 
StinkBomber said:
Yup, that's on pretty tight! :shock:

A similar / reverse method can be used in to make sure your flywheel gland nut is on tight enough. Better than a torque wrench :lol:


SNAP :lol:

Let's see how the 'Whacker' works out getting the nut off.
 
I broke two 1/2" bars doing mine on the old van. Borrowed a 3/4" bar (well over a metre long) and socket from a local, friendly garage and popped it in no time at all.

Another tip is to support the pivoting point under an axle stand or jack so that you get a more direct/straight torque.

Good luck dude!
 
gvee said:
I broke two 1/2" bars doing mine on the old van. Borrowed a 3/4" bar (well over a metre long) and socket from a local, friendly garage and popped it in no time at all.

Another tip is to support the pivoting point under an axle stand or jack so that you get a more direct/straight torque.

Good luck dude!
I think a 3/4" bar should do it - but see how the nut whacker works ;)

kevinhall said:
gninnam said:
just ordered a nut whacker.

Ooof, sounds painful :lol:
:roll: always one ;)
 
Whacker tool arrived today so got to use it.................























It works :)

20151019_172933_zpsgyyawzig.jpg


Need to buy a new breaker bar then off we go again
 
Success well done :D :D
Took a fair amount of persuasion, hope the other side is easier.
Seems the right tool for the right job hey!!

J & P
:D :D :D
 
gas1man said:
Success well done :D :D
Took a fair amount of persuasion, hope the other side is easier.
Seems the right tool for the right job hey!!

J & P
:D :D :D
Cheers - other side took a similar amount of effort but not to bad at all (put a thick piece of wood between the tool and the wheel when hitting it otherwise the tool bounces about and becomes harder to hit - hope that made sense!!)

Definitely the right tool for the job ;)
 
gninnam said:
Need to buy a new breaker bar then off we go again

I have a Halfords Pro breaker bar, it is more expensive, but if it breaks, Halfords will replace it for free. :D

It has been good so far!

Keep it going chap! :party0021:
 
cunning plan said:
gninnam said:
Need to buy a new breaker bar then off we go again

I have a Halfords Pro breaker bar, it is more expensive, but if it breaks, Halfords will replace it for free. :D

It has been good so far!

Keep it going chap! :party0021:
Bought one last night from my local motor factors and seems reasonable quality (was working last night in the dark on the van undoing all the bolts on the offside hub)
But, noticed that my original breaker bar is a Halfords one so might take it to them and see if anything can be done (probably not!)
 
gninnam said:
my original breaker bar is a Halfords one so might take it to them and see if anything can be done (probably not!)

If it is not a 'Pro' version, they will not replace it. It needs to be from the 'Halfords Pro' range ;)
 
Good call - can't remember if it was a 'pro' version or not.
Will have a look at the weekend as away from home until then.
 
24.10.2015

Got both the spring plates off today (but the torsion bars are stuck fast so doused currently in penetration oil)!

20151024_140218_zpsu7udrcnf.jpg


View of the nearside without the spring plate.

20151024_140231_zpscq9gyzzh.jpg


20151024_140244_zpsktbu5fkv.jpg


Offside view

20151024_140303_zpsck0lk4zk.jpg


20151024_140310_zpss9w8w21u.jpg



Offside spring plate hole is really badly rusted so will need a repair of some sort.

20151024_140341_zpspeuk7ppe.jpg


A view of the nearside spring plate hole

20151024_140411_zps91l74vsa.jpg


Nearside with the handbrake cable removed

20151024_152047_zpsj8ldcy8t.jpg


Offside view also minus the handbrake cable

20151024_152105_zpsk8hmbdpl.jpg


Started scraping off the under seal - no pics of that yet, but not enjoying this bit but needs to be done.
 
gninnam said:
24.10.2015

Got both the spring plates off today (but the torsion bars are stuck fast so doused currently in penetration oil)!

20151024_140218_zpsu7udrcnf.jpg

Mine were exactly the same.

I tried heating, penetrating spray, hitting with larger and larger hammers, shouting at them, quietly crying and talking to them in a reasonable manor, but nothing worked, they were corroded together. I had to carefully cut the spring-plate off the torsion bar, being careful not to cut into the splines. As I was replacing the spring-plates with Adjustable-lowering ones, it seemed like an acceptable option :(
 

Latest posts

Top